The Quack Doctor

As someone with a “countenance of moderate pretensions,” I can see the allure of some of these products …         

                             TRICOSIAN POWDER.
   For rendering Red or Grey Hair and Whiskers a beautiful
                                   Black or Brown.
THIS POWDER, which is a very curious dis-
covery in Chemistry, will be found, upon trial, much
superior to every preparation now offered for these purposes;
it is perfectly innoxious both to the Hair and Skin; indeed it
is of service to the Hair, for it promotes its growth, and in-
vigorates its texture. It is so perfectly safe for the Skin or
Clothes on which it happens to fall, and so infallible in its
operation that the dark tint, which is produced in a few
hours, cannot be obliterated by any process whatever. Price
3s. per box.
            SIDKI; OR, THE TURKISH COSMETIC FLUID.
This Lotion communicates to the Skin a delicate fineness
of texture, and juvenile freshness, and renders a countenance
of moderate pretensions irresistably attractive, protecting it
from the inclemency of the atmosphere and the ravages of
time. Price 2s per bottle, or twelve in a case for £1.
                           HUILE DE CACHMERE,
for preserving and improving the Hair, promoting its growth,
preserving it from falling off or turning grey, and restoring
it in those parts which have become nearly bald.
Price 2s. per Bottle, signed by the Proprietor, J. SINNETT.
   HUBERT’S ROSEATE POWDER FOR REMOVING
                          SUPERFLUOUS HAIRS.
This excellent Depilatory is perfectly safe in the application
and certain in its effect. Price 3s. and 5s.
               THE VENETIAN BLOOM OF YOUTH AND
                                       BEAUTY.;
Or Imperial Vegetable Powder for the Skin,
(A peculiarly elegant preparation of the beautiful Azalœa).
Communicates to the Skin the most brilliant and natural
fairness, and possesses this pre-eminent excellence, that it
cannot be discovered by the most scrutinising observer.
Price 2. per package, Six in one 10s., or Fourteen for £1 1s.
Sold Wholesale and Retail at Dr. SMITH’S, 74, Marlbo-
rough-street, and Shaw’s, 8, Bachelor’s-walk.

Source:  Freeman’s Journal and Daily Commercial Advertiser (Dublin) Tuesday 22 April 1851

This is another of the ads from Defoe’s A Review of the Affairs of France, which I have mentioned previously.

COSMETICON:    A    most     excellent     wash
to Beautifie the  Face,  &c.,  rendring  the  Skin sur-
prisingly white and  clear:  It  takes  away  all  Hard-
ness,  Tan,  Sunburn,  or  other  Discolourings:   All
Morphews,  Scurfs,  Freckles,  Lentils,  &c.,  tho’  of
never so long standing, speedily  heals chop’d Lips,
Pimples, or other breakings-out  in  the  Skin,  after
an admirable manner. Gives such a delicate,  pure,
clear, natural  lustre  to  the  Face  and  Hands,  &c.,
that  nothing  in  Nature  can  possibly  exceeds  it ;
yet leaves no  darnish,  but  is  wholly  free  from  all
pernicious   Ingredients,   as   Mercury  &c,   being
pure, sweet, clean, harmless and transparently clear;
’tis   found,  by  many  Years   Experience,  to  make
the skin so incomparably pure,  fine  and  soft,   and
so free from all Defilements and  Defects   whatsoe-
ver, that   it   leaves   no   room  for  anything  of   the
like kind to come  after   it.   For   Bruises   by   Falls,
&c., Aches and Pains even of   the   Gout   or   Rheu-
matism, it’s a present Sovereign  Remedy.  Sold   at
Mr.  Stevens’s,  a   Tin-Shop   next   the  Three  Nuns
near Salisbury-Court   in   Fleet-street,   and   at   Mr.
Parker’s Bookseller at  the  Keg  and  Star  in  Corn-
hill,  over  against  the  Royal-Exchange,  at   3s.   6d.
a Bottle, with Directions.

Source: A Review of the Affairs of France, Tuesday 3 April 1705

Note: Archaic spellings too numerous to detail but all as in original.

        Image: Whiskerandos, by John Leech, 1854.
Courtesy of the John Leech Sketch Archives from Punch

            LUXURIANT HAIR, WHISKERS, EYEBROWS, &c.
     THE   TESTIMONIALS   daily   received   by   Miss   DEAN
establish  the  fact   that   CRINILENE  is  the  only  preparation  that
can be perfectly relied upon in  producing  those  acknowledged  orna-
ments of manhood  in  three  or  four  weeks,  with certainty.  It  is emi-
nently successful in nourishing,  curling  and  beautifying  the Hair, and
checking and preventing greyness in all its stages, strengthening weak
hair,   preventing   it   falling   off,   &c.  For  the  reproduction  of  hair in
baldness, from whatever cause, and  at  whatever  age,  it  stands  unri-
valled. One trial only is  solicited  to  prove  the  fact.  It  is  an elegantly
scented  preparation,  and  sufficient  for  three months’ use will be sent
post  free,  on  receipt of Twenty-four Postage stamps, by MISS DEAN,
48 Liverpool-street, King’s-cross, London.

Source: The News of the World, Sunday 23 March 1851

 This is the oldest advert featured on The Quack Doctor so far – it’s from a 1705 edition of Daniel Defoe’s periodical A Review of the Affairs of France. Defoe began the publication in February 1704 as a weekly opinion piece, but by the time of this example he was publishing it every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. If I were a trendy, down-with-the-kids TV historian I’d say “he was an 18th-century blogger!” But I’m not, so I won’t. 

This advert was one of a few that Defoe repeatedly used depending on how much space he had left to fill. Look out for a couple of others at a later date.

.

.

The   Royal   Essence   for   the   Hair  of  the  Head
and   Perriwigs,   being   the   most    delicate   and
charming   Perfume   in   Nature,  and  the  greatest
Preserver  of  Hair  in  the  World,  for  it  keeps that
of Perriwigs  (a  much  longer  time  than  usual)  in
the  Curl,  and  fair  Hair  from  fading  or  changing
colour,  makes  the  Hair  of  the  Head  grow  thick,
strengthens and confirms its Roots  and  effectually
prevents   it   from   falling   off   or   splitting   at  the
ends, makes the Powder continue in all Hair longer
than it possibly will, by  the  use  of  any  other  thing.
By   its   incomparable   Odour    and    Fragancy   it
strengthens the Brain, revives the  Spirits,  quickens
the Memory, and  makes  the  Heart  chearful,  never
raises  the Vapours in Ladies, &c., being wholly  free
from  (and   abundantly   more   delightful   and  plea-
sant  than)  Musk,  Civet,   &c.   ‘Tis   indeed   an  un-
paralled  fine  Scent  for  the  Pocket,  and  perfumes
Handkerchiefs,   &c.,   excellently.   To   be  had  only
at  Mr.  Allcrafts,  a  Toyshop  at  the  Blue-Coat  Boy
at  the  Royal  Exchange  in  Cornhill.  Sealed  up,  at
2s. 6d. a Bottle with Directions.

Source:  A Review of the Affairs of France, with Observations on Transactions at Home, Tuesday 13 March 1705

Notes: Fragancy and un-paralled are as they appear in the original. Chearful was a normal 18thC spelling.

Image: Portrait of Madame Récamier, by François Pascal Simon Gérard

FEMALE ATTRACTION

TO    obviate    the    unpleasant    sensation    experienced    by
those    Ladies    who    may    have    SUPERFLUOUS     HAIRS
growing  on  the  Face  or Arms, and to render their persons more
lovely   and   attractive,   was   the  chief  motive  that  induced  the
Proprietor   of    ALFRED’s    ROYAL    COMPOSITION    to   sub-
mit  that  important  Discovery  to  the  test  and  Patronage  of the
Female World. How far he  has  succeeded  in  the  attainment  of
his wishes  is  best  shewn  by  the  numerous  applications  which
continue to be made  from  the  most  distinguished  in  the  higher
circles for  rank,  beauty,  and  fashion.  This  Composition  (which
was  first  prepared  for  the  late  Queen  of  France)  not  only  re-
moves  and  eradicates  all  Superfluous  Hairs from the Face and
Arms, but renders the Skin more delicate  and  fair,  giving  to  the
complexion and features a new  portion  of  loveliness  and  attrac-
tion.   The   Proprietor   finding   a   considerable   increase  in  the
sale,   has   relinquished   the   Retail  Branch,  and  appointed the
Composition to be sold in packets, at 5s. 6d. and 2s. 9d. each, by
Messrs. Gattie and Lea, No.  52,  New  Bond-street;  Davison  and
Son,  No.  59,  Fleet-street;  Kieth,  No.  30,  Haymarket; Bowman,
No.   102,   Bond-street;   Vickery,   Tavistock-street;    Cryer,  No.
68,   Cornhill;   and   Elliott,   Perfumer,   Rathbone-place.   Whole-
sale by Berry and Main, Greek-street, Soho.

Source: The Morning Chronicle (London), Tuesday 9th March 1802

(Image: Brunette Combing her Hair. James Carroll Beckwith, 1851)

We continue the hair theme today with the pungent-sounding Lockyer’s Sulphur Hair Restorer. This preparation was scrutinised in 1912 by the  British Medical Association in More Secret Remedies: What they cost and what they contain. Analysis showed that it comprised:

Precipitated Sulphur…..1.3 parts
Lead acetate……………..1.6 parts
Lead sulphate……………0.4 parts
Glycerine………………….9.6 parts

plus “Rose water sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.”  

The authors pointed out that the lead sulphate probably resulted from a chemical reaction, so the original amount of lead acetate (still used in some modern hair dyes) would have been greater.  When More Secret Remedies was written, a 12 fl. oz. bottle of Lockyer’s was still 1s. 6d, as in this 1875 advert. The BMA estimated that the actual cost of ingredients was tuppence.  

LOCKYER’s SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER

is the best, safest, and cheapest. It restores the

former colour to grey hair in a few days, is quite harmless,

and the best hair-dressing that can be used. Large bot-

tles, 1s. 6d. each. Sold by Chemists and Hairdressers

everywhere, and J. Pepper, 237, Tottenham-court-road,

London, whose name and address are on the label, or it is

spurious. Cases of three bottles, packed for country, sent

on receipt of 54 stamps.

Source: The Preston Guardian, Saturday 16th January 1875

 (Image: Tempus Edax Rerum, by John Leech. Punch, 1852. Courtesy of the John Leech Sketch Archive.)

 The advert below has a wonderfully tabloid feel to it, reflecting the sensationalist publication that carried it. The Illustrated Police News featured shocking accounts of true crime stories, and its advertising tended to be towards the seedier end of the spectrum. While the claims of some quacks are quite persuasive, this is one advert that doesn’t go in for subtlety or credibility. According to a BMA analysis in the early 20^th century, the product was more than 90% water, with the rest comprising borax, alcohol, glycerine and solution of ammonia, plus traces of colouring and perfume.

 LADIES’

HAIR.

_______

WHISKERS

AND

MOUSTACHIOS

POSITIVELY FORCED to grow heavily on the SMOOTHEST
FACE in a few weeks, WITHOUT INJURY to the skin and no
matter AT WHAT AGE, by using EDWARDS’ INSTAN-
TANEOUS AMERICAN HARLENE, the WORLD-RENOWNED
REMEDY for BALDNESS, from WHATEVER CAUSE arising.
As a producer of WHISKERS and MOUSTACHOIS it has never
been equalled. As a CURER of weak and thin EYELASHES,
or RESTORING GREY HAIR to its original colour, NEVER
FAILS. 1s. per bottle; post free from observation, 1s. 3d.,
including Testimonials ; also a valuable Treatise on the Culti-
vation of Hair. 50 years’ unparalleled success.
H. EDWARDS, 18 Oxford-street, London, W.

Source: The Illustrated Police News, Saturday 14th January 1888
Note: The error ‘MOUSTACHOIS’ is as shown in the original.

The pamphlet included with the Harlene gave instructions for the proper method, or “drill” of applying it. One had to be very exact, as this excerpt shows:

The manner in which a cat moves among shrubbery is a good illustration as to the way the fingers should be moved through the hair; the manner in which a cat kneads its bed before laying on it, placing its paws on the material on which it will sleep, and pressing it down in a kneading manner until suitable, the paws never being lifted and brought down, but only relaxed before the pressure is applied, is exactly how this movement in the “drill” should be carried out.

For an equally exaggerated pictorial ad from around 1900, have a look at the History of Advertising Trust’s image here