The Quack Doctor

(Image: Brunette Combing her Hair. James Carroll Beckwith, 1851)

We continue the hair theme today with the pungent-sounding Lockyer’s Sulphur Hair Restorer. This preparation was scrutinised in 1912 by the  British Medical Association in More Secret Remedies: What they cost and what they contain. Analysis showed that it comprised:

Precipitated Sulphur…..1.3 parts
Lead acetate……………..1.6 parts
Lead sulphate……………0.4 parts
Glycerine………………….9.6 parts

plus “Rose water sufficient to produce 100 parts by measure.”  

The authors pointed out that the lead sulphate probably resulted from a chemical reaction, so the original amount of lead acetate (still used in some modern hair dyes) would have been greater.  When More Secret Remedies was written, a 12 fl. oz. bottle of Lockyer’s was still 1s. 6d, as in this 1875 advert. The BMA estimated that the actual cost of ingredients was tuppence.  

LOCKYER’s SULPHUR HAIR RESTORER

is the best, safest, and cheapest. It restores the

former colour to grey hair in a few days, is quite harmless,

and the best hair-dressing that can be used. Large bot-

tles, 1s. 6d. each. Sold by Chemists and Hairdressers

everywhere, and J. Pepper, 237, Tottenham-court-road,

London, whose name and address are on the label, or it is

spurious. Cases of three bottles, packed for country, sent

on receipt of 54 stamps.

Source: The Preston Guardian, Saturday 16th January 1875

 (Image: Tempus Edax Rerum, by John Leech. Punch, 1852. Courtesy of the John Leech Sketch Archive.)

 The advert below has a wonderfully tabloid feel to it, reflecting the sensationalist publication that carried it. The Illustrated Police News featured shocking accounts of true crime stories, and its advertising tended to be towards the seedier end of the spectrum. While the claims of some quacks are quite persuasive, this is one advert that doesn’t go in for subtlety or credibility. According to a BMA analysis in the early 20^th century, the product was more than 90% water, with the rest comprising borax, alcohol, glycerine and solution of ammonia, plus traces of colouring and perfume.

 LADIES’

HAIR.

_______

WHISKERS

AND

MOUSTACHIOS

POSITIVELY FORCED to grow heavily on the SMOOTHEST
FACE in a few weeks, WITHOUT INJURY to the skin and no
matter AT WHAT AGE, by using EDWARDS’ INSTAN-
TANEOUS AMERICAN HARLENE, the WORLD-RENOWNED
REMEDY for BALDNESS, from WHATEVER CAUSE arising.
As a producer of WHISKERS and MOUSTACHOIS it has never
been equalled. As a CURER of weak and thin EYELASHES,
or RESTORING GREY HAIR to its original colour, NEVER
FAILS. 1s. per bottle; post free from observation, 1s. 3d.,
including Testimonials ; also a valuable Treatise on the Culti-
vation of Hair. 50 years’ unparalleled success.
H. EDWARDS, 18 Oxford-street, London, W.

Source: The Illustrated Police News, Saturday 14th January 1888
Note: The error ‘MOUSTACHOIS’ is as shown in the original.

The pamphlet included with the Harlene gave instructions for the proper method, or “drill” of applying it. One had to be very exact, as this excerpt shows:

The manner in which a cat moves among shrubbery is a good illustration as to the way the fingers should be moved through the hair; the manner in which a cat kneads its bed before laying on it, placing its paws on the material on which it will sleep, and pressing it down in a kneading manner until suitable, the paws never being lifted and brought down, but only relaxed before the pressure is applied, is exactly how this movement in the “drill” should be carried out.

For an equally exaggerated pictorial ad from around 1900, have a look at the History of Advertising Trust’s image here